For as little as $75 shipped you can get your basic OBDI PCM settings changed ($65 for chips)! Or receive an OBDI Power Tune via email for just $85, or through the mail for $135 shipped ('92-'93 chips, just $115)! And for OBDII LT1/LS1 PCMs, just $85-$90 or $145-$180 shipped for Basic or Power Tuning, or $95-$110 through email!
This service includes the 1994-1995 OBDI LT1 vehicles (serv. # 16188051, 16181333), 1996-1997 OBDII LT4/LT1/L99 vehicles (serv. # 16214399, 16242921), and 1997-2005 OBDII LS1 F-/Y-Body vehicles and trucks (serv. # 16238212, 09354896, 12200411): the Camaro Z28 and SS, Firebird Formula and Trans Am, the Corvette, Impala SS, the Fleetwood, the Caprice, and the Roadmaster (even the 4.3L L99 engine)!
For 1986-1992 TPI/TBI (1227165, 1228746, 1227165, 1227727, 1227730) and 1992-1993 LT1 (16159278) chip-based PCMs, when you order I will send you a new custom-programmed chip that you can install in your PCM, using either a piggyback adpater you can buy on your own for $35, or which you solder directly in place of the stock chip. For '86+ TBI (1228063), you will need a socket that must be soldered directly onto your stock PCM. Contact me for more info if interested in that.
Other methods include my Email Power Tune, if you have your own tuning kit, or my Cable Loan Power Tune where you rent one of my kits and I still do the tuning through email. Read below for details!
Do you have another GM PCM that you need tuned that is not listed above? I may be able to tune it for you. Just contact me with a description of your setup and I'll let you know whether I can help you. I can only tune GM PCMs, so unfortunately I cannot tune Ford, Chrysler or any foreign vehicles.
Basic Tuning is for those who only need non-power items changed, which are quick fixes, like rear gear ratio and/or tire size (for '94-'97), removal of VATS/AIR Pump/EGR/skip-shift, or changing to speed density. It is only available through the Postal tuning method.
This option is also good for those who are doing an engine swap, putting the LT1 into another car, and don't desire any extra power gains over stock.
See below for more items that can be changed. If you need any spark timing changes, fueling changes, or automatic transmission changes, you will need the Power Tune.
Power Tuning includes any changes available in Basic, as well as changes for increasing torque and horsepower, increasing MPG, or automatic shifting changes, such as firmness, shift points, and TCC lockup points.
This works even on stock engines, as one customer with a stock LT1 engine in his '94 Z28, gained 26 rwhp with just my tuning!
What setups need Power Tuning?
If you order my Power Tune via Email or Cable Loan, then you will benefit from using FreeScan or DataMaster logs of your own vehicle running with my tune, to allow me to fine-tune your PCM even further.
This is real-world, street-feedback, which will get your car running like how you want! It also will increase MPG, throttle response, and overall power.
What are other benefits of Power Tuning?
I recognize that many of my customers use the Email or Cable Loan methods as a kind of diagnosis tool in combination with tuning. I am not a mechanic, but I am happy to offer suggestions on what may need addressed, based on what I have seen while tuning the 1000+ PCMs that I have tuned. However, please note that this method is for tuning the vehicle, and I can't guarantee that I can help you figure out what is mechanically wrong with your car.
What is MPG Improvement? If you read my "Tips" page, you will see exactly how it is done. To summarize, in open loop I simply program the PCM to run a leaner AFR (air:fuel mixture) from your base settings. In closed loop, when the oxygen sensors are functioning, I tell the PCM to use a lower voltage as the ideal point in order to make it run leaner. Both will use less fuel, which will improve MPG.
This is the most common way for me to tune your PCM.
For 1994+ flash-based PCMs, you remove your PCM from your vehicle and mail it to me. I tune it to your specs, and mail it back to you; this obviously requires some down-time as the PCM is in transit both to and from you and me, and while I am tuning it while it's with me (usually a week from you sending it until you receive it back).
For 1993 and earlier chip-based PCMs, you order yourself an apppropriate piggyback adapter if desired to make installation easier, and I send you a new tuned chip to install in your PCM. You do not need to send me your PCM for those years.
I am willing to ship around the world, so even if you live overseas, we can still get it done!
This is an easier but less common way for me to tune your PCM.
It requires you to purchase your own tuning kit (ALDL cable/converter box, chip burner and chip for chip-based ECMs, tuning software, and datalogging software), in order to let me tune for you through email.
If you plan to do any tune editing on your own, I'd highly recommend the following:
You begin with the base tuned file I will send which will be set to your setup's specs, and then with datalogging software you will record the car while it's running. I then use those logs to fine-tune the PCM and give you updated tunes to use. Three such free retunes are included with the order, and additional retunes past the first three are only $35 for each additional three.
This saves you down-time since you do not need to send me your 1994+ PCM, and allows the tune to more accurately maatch your specific setup.
This way saves you down-time just like the Email option, and if you don't see the need for having your own tuning kit, will also save you some money over buying your own hardware/software, but still allows me to fine-tune your PCM according to how your actual vehicle is running.
For 1994-2005 flash-based LT1/LS1 PCMs, you rent an ALDL cable and free software from me, which you can use to load my tune into your own PCM without needing to remove it, as well as data-log while driving, so I can fine-tune the PCM exactly to how your car is running.
For 1986-1993 TBI/TPI/LT1 chip-based PCMs, I send you a chip burner/eraser, a blank chip, a memcal reader (for you to read your stock chip's image for me to use as the base for your new tune), and an ALDL cable. Once you read your memcal, I build your new tune to your specs and email it to you, at which point you then burn it onto the blank chip I send. Then, you can use the cable to datalog the vehicle running with it so that I can fine-tune things and email you updated tunes that you can burn onto the same chip (it is eraseable). You will need an adapter from Moates to easily install the new chips (G1 for TPI/LT1, G2 for TBI).
You will have 1 week of fine-tuning available from me starting when you receive my first tune (I do not work on the weekends, so I do not count those days against your rental); each additional week costs $50 ('94-'95 LT1), $50 ('96-'97 LT1) or $50 ('97-'05 Vortec/LS1).
When you order, you will pay the tune price as well as a refundable core charge for the kit. Once we are finished tuning, and I receive the kit back from you, your full core charge will be refunded to your PayPal account/credit card, so you will end up paying only the tune price. If you keep the kit one week more than the rental time for which you paid, or you decide you'd like to keep it for yourself, I will consider it a purchase and your core charge will not be refunded.
There is also one slight risk with this method for the '94-'05 LT1/LS1 PCMs: if anything interrupts the PCM programming/flashing process, which you will be doing with your own PCM and my cable, it will damage the PCM and require repair before running again. So, you will need to accept this risk and ensure that your laptop and vehicle batteries are fully charged or plugged in to AC and that nothing interrupts it.
But, the benefits far outweigh this small risk! You can get your vehicle running amazingly well without ever sending me your PCM!
This method assumes that your vehicle is in good running order. Fine-tuning requires having valid data from the sensors, including your knock sensor(s), O2 sensors, and MAF sensor; and it requires that you do not have any intake or exhaust leaks, which will invalidate the fuel trim readings.
If you live close to Cincinnati, Ohio, you may schedule a time to bring your vehicle to me, so that I can tune it in person. I don't normally recommend this method unless you live very close to me, as my Email and Cable Loan methods are basically the same thing but will save you driving time and fuel costs, as well as give us more time to finish the tune.
This method requires that your vehicle be in good mechanical shape (no intake or exhaust leaks, etc.), with the main sensors (O2, knock, MAF) being new or very clean, so that I have valid data to use for fine-tuning.
If you have an '86-'94 chip-based PCM, I will be able to use my real-time tuning emulator hardware, which allows me to make changes to the tune while the vehicle is running and driving. This shortens the tuning time a lot.
The typical time to do the tune in-person is about two hours, assuming there are no above-mentioned issues. I am not a mechanic, but I can sometimes give suggestions on what to check if the data doesn't look right.
If we cannot finish the tune on that day, we can meet up again for further fine-tuning, without an additional charge from me.
Below is a partial list of the various systems and their checks that I can enable/disable for you. Many of these are not needed when you swap the LT1 engine and PCM into other vehicles, like hot rods or foreign cars.
Did you recently do some of the mods below? They can easily be accomodated with the Basic Tune:
I accept PayPal for all order types. PayPal is a secure, online payment system, which allows you to securely send me payment with your checking/savings account, credit card, eCheck, or if you already have an account, your PayPal balance.
You do not need to create a PayPal account to send payment with a credit card, as you will still be able to use their secure processing to use your credit card without needing to create an account.
I accept a cashier's check or money order for for Postal and Email tunes only (not Cable Loan). Please, no personal checks, as they can take several days to a week to clear, which will hold up your tuning order.
My pricing for the Postal Tunes includes return postage to you if you live in the USA (USPS Priority Mail, usually 1-3 days). This means you only pay to ship it to me!
For the Cable Loan kits, I pay to ship the kit to you, and you pay to ship it back (the opposite of the Postal methods).
I used to offer expedited shipping, but the additional cost is no longer worth it, as the USPS now often takes two days with their newest "Priority Mail Express" option, instead of it being overnight like USPS Express used to be.
If you live outside of the US, there is additional charge for postage, over the base tune price, as follows:
Once you place an order, and I receive your PCM (or emailed tune image file) and payment (or just payment for chip orders), I will be able to begin work. Lately, my usual turn-around time has been 2-5 business days, either for shipment back to you or emailed back, depending on my current back-log.
Tuning not done in person will never match in-person tuning, whether done in the car or on a dyno. For this reason, I offer free retunes for those who have ordered from me in order to get it "right" for you.
For those ordering via postal mail, I offer one free retune if you pay for shipping both ways. This retune only applies to the current setup for which you ordered (for fine-tuning or making changes like shift points, etc.), it does not apply to new mods/changes you make to your vehicle. There is no time limit on the free retune.
For those ordering via email, I offer up to three free retunes, optionally (and ideally) using your own DataMaster, FreeScan or TunerPro RT logs to fine-tune the PCM. There is no time limit on using these free retunes, but as above, they only apply to your current setup (for fine-tuning), not for accomodating new mods.
For those ordering via cable loan, you will have one week to datalog your vehicle using my included software, and let me fine-tune it based on those logs and your feedback.
To request a PCM to be tuned, I ask that you first sign up as a customer. This allows me to keep each person's name and mailing information separate from their PCM info, in case they ever send another PCM or have the same one retuned in the future.
Once signed up, you will be issued a customer number, which, along with your chosen password, you can then use for the PCM tune order form. This way each order is able to be tracked much more efficiently, saving both you and me time. Thanks in advance for your cooperation!
I have been driving that 4.3L L99 Caprice car you tuned and my gas mileage is way, way better. I am actually getting over 30mpg on the highway now. My last tank average was at 29mpg. The power level is about the same but the mileage is incredible for a 4,000 plus pound car.
Emails Not Arriving! I have received several reports of people emailing me over the last month or so, without me ever receiving them. If you contacted me within that time period, and did not receive a reply, please do not think I am ignoring you! Please use my contact form to try again, or if you are on Facebook, like my page and contact me from there to ensure I've received your message. Thank you for your understanding!
Do you need a good tune, but cannot afford the down-time of mailing your PCM to me? Do you not have any interest in long-term tuning where you would need to buy your own equipment and tuning software? Now I can loan you one of my tuning kits to allow me to fine-tune your 1986-2003 PCM to match your individual setup, without you needing to send me your PCM. No more downtime, and a fully tuned vehicle!
You can now have the same tuning tips on my website in a handy, printable PDF format, for easy offline reference (over 20 full pages!).
If you decide you like the idea of tuning on your own, visit TunerCat and purchase the C.A.T.S. Tuner software to get started ($69.95). For working on your '94 or '95 LT1 PCM, you'll also need the $EE definition file ($19.95).
Then just get yourself an OBDI ALDL cable and compatible computer, and you're ready! Use my free "Tips" page or buy the PDF version for a small fee, and get started!