$100 (Chip) / $100 (OBDI) / $100 (OBDII) / $100 (LS1)
Shipped

Basic Tuning is for those who only need non-power items changed, which are quick fixes, like rear gear ratio and/or tire size (for '94-'97), removal of VATS/AIR Pump/EGR/skip-shift, or changing to speed density. It is only available through the Postal tuning method.

This option is also good for those who are doing an engine swap, putting the LT1 into another car, and don't desire any extra power gains over stock.

See below for more items that can be changed. If you have significant mods and/or need any spark timing changes, fueling changes, or automatic transmission changes, you will need the Power Tune.

Power Tuning includes any changes available in Basic, as well as changes for increasing torque and horsepower, increasing MPG, or automatic shifting changes, such as firmness, shift points, and TCC lockup points.

This works even on stock engines, as one customer with a stock LT1 engine in his '94 Z28, gained 26 rwhp with just my fine-tuning through email! The average gains seem to be in the 20-30 rwhp range, as people often gain 2-3 tenths and 2-3 MPH in the 1/4 mile after my Power Tune.

Postal Power Tune

1992-1993 LT1: $200
1994-1995 LT1/L99: $200
1996-1997 LT1/L99: $200
1997-2005 LSx: $200

Postal Method Not Available for 1985-1995 TBI/TPI, Trucks, 24X/Torqhead, or Boosted Setups;
But Email/Cable Loan is!

What setups need or benefit from Power Tuning?

• Stock or bolt-on vehicles where you want a bump in gas mileage and/or overall power and throttle response/drivability
• Significant engine modifications, such as new fuel injectors, cams, heads, overbore/stroke, or compression ratio changes
• Swapping stock LT1 heads, either iron to aluminum, or vice-versa
• Changes to the shift points and/or shift firmness (line pressure) for PCM-controlled automatic transmissions

If you order my Power Tune via Email or Cable Loan, then you will benefit from using data-logs of your own vehicle running with my tune, to allow me to fine-tune your setup even further.

This is real-world, street-feedback, which will get your car running like how you want! It also will increase MPG, throttle response, and overall power.

Note: If you have internal mods like a new cam, etc., a data-logging tuning method is required for optimum running; a single Postal tune is not intended for long-term use.

Note: If you have a speed density (SD) ECM (85-92 TPI, 92-93 LT1, etc.) or want to run in speed density (SD) mode (no MAF sensor), a a single Postal tune is not ideal for long-term use. You'll want my Email or Cable Loan methods to get the most out of it since SD uses hard-coded fuel tables.

What are other benefits of Power Tuning?

• Improved drivability and likely even MPG, just from timing changes.
• Noticeable MPG increase if you select a version of my MPG Improvement
• Auto transmission shift points matched to your engine's "sweet spot" of torque and power
• Locking the TCC earlier and/or at WOT to increase power to the rear-wheels

I recognize that many of my customers use the Email or Cable Loan methods as a kind of diagnosis tool in combination with tuning. I am not a mechanic, but I am happy to offer suggestions on what may need addressed, based on what I have seen while tuning the 1000+ PCMs that I have tuned. However, please note that this method is for tuning the vehicle, and I can't guarantee that I can help you figure out what is mechanically wrong with your car.

What is MPG Improvement? If you read my "Tips" page, you will see exactly how it is done. To summarize, in open loop I simply program the PCM to run a leaner AFR (air:fuel mixture) from your base settings. In closed loop, when the oxygen sensors are functioning, I tell the PCM to use a lower voltage as the ideal point in order to make it run leaner. Both will use less fuel, which will improve MPG.

One customer with a stock '94 L99 engine (4.3L V8, so-called "baby LT1") reported over 30 MPG highway in a full-size Caprice when using only the Moderate version of my MPG Improvement!

Another customer with a stock '97 LT1 said that he went from 14-15 to 19 MPG with my Moderate MPG Improvement, even with his aggressive driving! A gain of 4-5MPG with just tuning!

Available for Basic & Power Tunes

This is the most common way for me to tune your PCM.

For 1994+ flash-based PCMs, you remove your PCM from your vehicle and mail it to me. I tune it to your specs, and mail it back to you; this obviously requires some down-time as the PCM is in transit both to and from you and me, and while I am tuning it while it's with me (usually a week from you sending it until you receive it back).

For 1993 and earlier chip-based PCMs, you order yourself an apppropriate piggyback adapter if desired (G1 for LT1/TPI, G2 for older TBI) to make installation easier, and I send you a new tuned chip to install in your PCM. You do not need to send me your PCM for those years.

I use either USPS Priority Mail or UPS Ground to ship your packages, which usually takaes 1-3 business days to any part of the USA.

I am also willing to ship around the world, so even if you live overseas, we can still get it done! USPS Priority or UPS usually take a week or so to arrive.

I do not recommend this method for a modded setup (new intake, cam, injectors, etc.), especially if you're running in speed density mode (no MAF sensor)

If you have a boosted setup (supercharger/turbocharger) or 24X/Torqhead setup then this method is not available, Email or Cable Loan is required

Such modded setups require fine-tuning via data-logging in order to run best, and a single tune through postal mail isn't intended for long-term use in that case. For modded setups, consider one of the two methods below!

Available for Power Tunes Only

$200: 85-95 OBDI LT1 Flash & Chip ECMs
$200: 96-97 OBDII LT1
$200: 96-05 OBDII LSx/Vortec

This is an easier but less common way for me to tune your PCM.

It requires you to have a laptop with Windows 7+ and have or purchase your own tuning kit (ALDL cable/converter box, chip burner and chip for chip-based ECMs, tuning software, and datalogging software), in order to let me tune for you through email.

If you plan to do any tune editing on your own, I'd highly recommend the following:

• OBDI: LT1 Pro Tuning kits from TunerCat. It includes licensed software of both the tune flashing/editing program (TunerCat) as well as their data-logger (DataCat), an ALDL cable, and if necessary a chip burner, socket and blank chip (get the OBD1 Pro kit if you have a chip-based ECM).
• OBDII: Jet Dynamic Spectrum Tuner (DST) (Summit Racing often has the best price, ~$350-$400), and ECMPro Scan + enhanced GM diagnostics ($199)

For 94-95 LT1/L99 flash-based PCMs, if you don't care much about editing your own tunes, then you can buy just an ALDL cable and use some free software to load my tunes and data-log.

You begin with the base tuned file I will send which will be set to your setup's specs, which is for what you are paying: one base tune (like the Postal method).

Optional Free Retunes

I also offer free retunes, at my discretion and according to my schedule (you are not paying for them). With datalogging software, you will record the car while it's running. I then use those logs to modify things and give you updated tunes to use. Up to three such free retunes are included with the order (again, at my discretion and schedule), and additional retunes past the first three are only $50 for each additional three.

There is no time limit for the retunes, but they apply only to the order/setup for which you order; their purpose is to fine-tune that setup, not to accomodate new mods or new setups down the road (for that, you would need a new order).

This saves you down-time since you do not need to send me your 1994+ PCM, and allows the tune to more accurately match your specific setup.

I do not give an ETA for providing the retunes since they're done at my discretion; sometimes I can get to them within a few days, other times it can be a week or two or more, depending on my current work-load.

Notice:

This method assumes that your vehicle is in good running order. Fine-tuning requires having valid data from the sensors, including your knock sensor(s), O2 sensors, and MAF sensor; and it requires that you do not have any intake or exhaust leaks, which will invalidate the fuel trim readings.

1986-1993 TBI/TPI/LT1: $275 + $185 Refundable Core
1994-1995 LT1/L99: $275 + $70 Refundable Core
1996-1997 LT1/L99: $275 + $550 Refundable Core
1997-2005 LSx/Vortec: $300 + $550 Refundable Core

Don't have or want to buy your own tuning kit? Then rent mine and I can still tune for you through email to get the most out of your setup!

For 1994-2005 flash-based LT1/LS1 PCMs, you rent an ALDL cable and free software from me, which you can use to load my tune into your own PCM without needing to remove it, as well as data-log while driving, so I can fine-tune the PCM exactly to how your car is running.

For 1986-1993 TBI/TPI/LT1 chip-based PCMs, I send you a chip burner/eraser, a blank chip, and an ALDL cable. I build your new tune to your specs and email it to you, at which point you then burn it onto the blank chip I've sent. Then, you can use the cable to datalog the vehicle running with it so that I can fine-tune things and email you updated tunes that you can burn onto the same chip (it is eraseable). You will need an adapter from TunerCat to easily install the new chips (G1 for LT1/TPI, G2 for older TBI), and I'd also highly recommend the S2 ZIF socket (if TC has it) to make R&R of the chip easier/safer.

You will have 7 business days (Mon-Fri, no legal holidays) of fine-tuning available from me starting when you receive my first tune (I do not work on the weekends, so I do not count those days against your rental); each additional week costs $50 ('94-'95 LT1), $50 ('96-'97 LT1) or $50 ('97-'05 Vortec/LS1).

When you order, you will pay the tune price as well as a refundable core charge for the kit. Once we are finished tuning, and I receive the kit back from you, your core charge will be refunded to your PayPal account/credit card (for OBD2 kits, $25 will be deducted from the core refund to cover use/fees). If you keep the kit one week more than the rental time for which you paid, or you decide you'd like to keep it for yourself, I will consider it a purchase and your core charge will not be refunded.

Requirements:

• Laptop/Netbook - needed to flash 1994-2005 LT1/LS1 PCMs, and data-log all vehicles while driving
• Windows 7/8.x/10.x (XP/Vista can also work for pre-flash-based ECMs) - needed to run the flashing/data-logging software and to support the USB cable driver
• USB port - needed for connecting the ALDL cable to your laptop
• Comfortability using computers and programs - if you are a complete computer novice, this will not be for you; if you can install and use normal computer programs, install a USB device, and email attachments, you should be fine!
• ALDL vehicle port - all factory vehicles which I can tune come with these; it is necessary to data-log the vehicle while driving, as well as to load the tunes for 1994-2005 flash-based LT1/LS1/Vortec PCMs.
• Internet connection - you will download the required drivers and software from the Internet using links I will provide. All PCM types require an internet connection somewhere to get the logs and tune files back and forth to and from me.

There is also one slight risk with this method for the '94-'05 LT1/LS1 PCMs: if anything interrupts the PCM programming/flashing process, which you will be doing with your own PCM and my cable, it will damage the PCM and require repair before running again. So, you will need to accept this risk and ensure that your laptop and vehicle batteries are fully charged or plugged in to AC and that nothing interrupts it. But, the benefits far outweigh this small risk! You can get your vehicle running amazingly well without ever sending me your PCM!

Notice:

This method assumes that your vehicle is in good running order. Fine-tuning requires having valid data from the sensors, including your knock sensor(s), O2 sensors, and MAF sensor; and it requires that you do not have any intake or exhaust leaks, which will invalidate the fuel trim readings.

Below is a partial list of the various systems and their error codes that I can enable/disable for you. Many of these are not needed when you swap the LT1 engine and PCM into other vehicles, like hot rods or foreign cars.

• VATS (Vehicle Anti-Theft System) - only the PCM part of the system
• CAGS/CARS (Skip-shift for M6 transmissions)
• AIR Pump
• EGR
• CCP/EVAP (carbon canister purge & EVAP system)
• VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) - not recommended but possible
• A/C (for removal of air conditioning system)
• CPS (for misfire detection)
• Traction Control - for those that never use it, this will permanently disable it
• MAF Sensor - causes the car to run in Speed Density mode, which uses the VE tables, along with the MAP and IAT sensors
• Front/Upstream O2 Sensors - causes car to permanently run in "open loop," which requires careful tuning since no fueling correction is done
• Rear/Downstream O2 Sensors - used for monitoring catalytic converter operation
• And much, much more - contact me with any questions!

Did you recently do some of the mods below? They can easily be accomodated my tuning!

• Fan Settings - added a 160° thermostat? Now make your fans come on sooner to help cool your engine better!
• Rear Gears or Wheels/Tires - so your speedometer and automatic shifting work correctly again!
• Fuel Injectors - so your car doesn't run lean or rich any more
• Ported or 3" vs 3.5" MAF, or New Air Intake - did you port and/or descreen your stock MAF sensor (not ideal)? Switch from 3" B-Body MAF to 3.5" F-Body MAF? Or change the air intake setup in front of the MAF sensor? It changed how your engine runs and the PCM needs updated to restore your full drivability, MPG and power. Some drivability can be restored with ported stock MAFs, but you should always run with the screen installed with curved intakes.
• Different Engine Displacement, Cams, Heads - any major mods like these can be tuned for! (Email method recommended for long-term use)
• Boost from Supercharger/Turbocharger - I've successfully tuned many boosted setups! Email method is required!

I accept PayPal for all order types. PayPal is a secure, online payment system, which allows you to securely send me payment with your checking/savings account, credit card, eCheck, or if you already have an account, your PayPal balance.

You do not need to create a PayPal account to send payment with a credit card, as you will still be able to use their secure processing to use your credit card without needing to create an account.

I accept a cashier's check or money order for for Postal and Email tunes only (not Cable Loan). Please, no personal checks, as they can take several days to a week to clear, which will hold up your tuning order.

US Shipping

My pricing for the Postal Tunes includes return postage to you if you live in the USA (USPS Priority Mail/UPS Ground, usually 1-3 days). This means you only pay to ship it to me!

For the Cable Loan kits, I pay to ship the kit to you, and you pay to ship it back (the opposite of the Postal methods).

I used to offer expedited shipping, but the additional cost is no longer worth it, as the USPS now often takes two days with their newest "Priority Mail Express" option, instead of it being overnight like USPS Express used to be.

International Shipping

If you live outside of the US, there is additional charge for postage (either USPS Priority or UPS Worldwide, usually a week or less), over the base tune price, as follows:

Chips ('86-'93)

• Canada/Mexico: US$30
• Overseas: US$35

Flash PCMs ('94-'06)

• Canada/Mexico: US$55
• Overseas: US$65

Cable Loan Kits

• Canada/Mexico: US$35
• Overseas: US$65

Turn-Around Time

Once you place an order, and I receive your PCM (or emailed tune image file) and payment (or just payment for chip orders), I will be able to begin work. Lately, my usual turn-around time has been 3-7 business days, either for shipment back to you or emailed back, depending on my current back-log.

Free Retunes

Tuning not done in person will never match in-person tuning, whether done in the car or on a dyno. For this reason, I offer free retunes for those who have ordered from me in order to get it "right" for you.

For those ordering via postal mail, I offer one free retune if you pay for shipping both ways. This retune only applies to the current setup for which you ordered (for fine-tuning or making changes like shift points, etc.), it does not apply to new mods/changes you make to your vehicle. There is no time limit on the free retune.

For those ordering via email, I offer up to three free retunes, optionally (and ideally) using your own DataMaster, FreeScan or TunerPro RT logs to fine-tune the PCM. There is no time limit on using these free retunes, but as above, they only apply to your current setup (for fine-tuning), not for accomodating new mods.

For those ordering via cable loan, you will have 7 business days (Mon-Fri, no legal holidays) to rent the tuning kit and data-log your vehicle using my included software, and let me fine-tune it based on those logs and your feedback. This gives us both ample time to do the work according to our own schedules (it may not always be a one day turn-around, etc.).

To request a PCM to be tuned, I ask that you first sign up as a customer. This allows me to keep each person's name and mailing information separate from their PCM info, in case they ever send another PCM or have the same one retuned in the future.

Once signed up, you will be issued a customer number, which, along with your chosen password, you can then use for the PCM tune order form. This way each order is able to be tracked much more efficiently, saving both you and me time. Thanks in advance for your cooperation!

Signup Now!

Once you have signed up with me as a customer, you can use your # and password to order a PCM tune.